O U T S I D E L E F T   stay i n d e p e n d e n t

Coney Island Baby

A restless night for an Irishman in New York

get the weekly Outsideleft newsletter
by Joe Ambrose, Literary Editor for outsideleft.com
originally published: August, 2006
it must have been around 4am by the time I got off at the wrong Subway station
by Joe Ambrose, Literary Editor for outsideleft.com
originally published: August, 2006
it must have been around 4am by the time I got off at the wrong Subway station

It was 3am and I couldn't sleep so I decided to go look at Coney Island. I'd seen it in so many movies but I'd never seen it in the real world.

It took me a while to get there on the Subway from Manhattan and it must have been around 4am by the time I got off at the wrong Subway station, the one prior to Coney Island. I had to walk through much industrial and urban wasteland to reach my destination. That part of town was naturally deserted; even NYC kind of sleeps at that hour.

I found myself on a long narrow boulevard called Neon Street. At the other end I could make out the iconic Coney Island skyline.  
 
Neon Street was, strangely, teeming with life. Lots of young Hassidic Jewish guys talking excitedly to one another and walking around fast in duos or larger clusters. A number of sidewalk cafes, seedy looking places, were open for business. The customers were Latino homies, wetback Elvises in leather and denim. Fantastic hip hop was blasting out of the dives.

It all seemed, for some reason, threatening or alien. I kept my eyes straight ahead and soon I was walking along the deserted legendary boardwalk in the calm moonlight.  

An hour later I decided to retrace my steps back through Neon Street. Don't ask me why. It was just as lively and just as weird.

The next day, on the local TV news, I heard that a trainee Rabbi, aged twenty, had been stabbed to death on Neon Street around 5am. They showed the street in daytime, deserted but for the police investigators. The murder, the newscaster said, had been a homosexual-related crime.  

Don't ask me...br>

Photo with kind permission: BlueJake publisher of the Gothamist

see more stories from outsideleft's Culture archive »»

Joe Ambrose
Literary Editor

Joe Ambrose has written 14 books, including Chelsea Hotel Manhattan and The Fenian Reader. Joe is currently working on his next book, Look at Us Now - The Life and Death of Muammar Ghadaffi, which is an expanded version of a story first published in the anthology CUT UP! Visit Joe's website for all the latest info: JoeAmbrose.co.uk.

more stories you really could read...


thumb through the ancient archives:

search for something you might like...


sign up for the outsideleft weekly. a selection of new and archived stories every week. Or less.

View previous campaigns.

LACMA Turns On
J.Ch. Made it out to the members only opening of the Renzo Piano designed Broad Museum of Contemporary Art at LACMA Opening.
Funky Minimalism - the Greatest Common Factor
Glissandro 70 has found a way to strip the music I love down to its rapt, pulsing core
What Good is a Purr Without a Scratch
Cat Power returns from that room of her own with honey drizzled album that hopefully isn't going to be her greatest statement.
Invasion of Personal Space
Balachadha.com - Pete Doherty's New Website
Robert Mapplethorpe Died for Somebody's Sins, But Not Mine
Patti Smith and Kevin Shields join forces to craft an epic, harrowing work of remembrance of an artist, and for art itself.
Some of our favorite things...